We grow lots of fruit so the freezers are well fed throughout the summer. Heavy rain and cold temperatures last summer meant the damson crop failed but fortunately we had some Damsons in the freezer to use up from the previous year!
There are only so many crumbles two people can eat but there are plenty of other delicious things to make. Doc makes Damson (or Raspberry) Gin whilst I concentrate on preserves. We have lots of Damson chutney in the pantry so I thought it was time to make some Damson Jam. I don’t know why some people think making jam is difficult or technical. True, it needs some specialised equipment and you do have to test for setting point, but other than that, it is a case of put the radio on and get on with it. It is a very satisfying occupation and very therapeutic.
Of all the jams, I find Damson the most tedious because of the pesky stones. I don’t like leaving any in, in case someone chokes on one. So I painstakingly remove every single one – and for 3 Kg of fruit yesterday, that was over 400! If I am lucky, I can cut out the stones before the fruit is cooked but sometimes, inexplicably, removing the stones is like extracting teeth so I stew the fruit first, cool it, de-stone it and then heat it up again. Whatever you do, don’t try to remove stones when you have added the sugar because the jam will reach setting point long before you have scooped them all out. Over-boiled jam is like glue and will not spread.
To avoid the stone issue altogether, you can make jelly instead of jam. This is decadent. It is wasteful because you only use juice, not the fruit pulp. I only make it when there is a glut of raspberries or damsons, though I usually make redcurrant jelly every year because it goes so well with lamb and I also add it to braised red cabbage. Jellies are beautiful but they do take longer to make. Stew the fruit and water, mash the pulp and then pour the lot into a jelly bag on a stand, over a large jug. Leave it to drip overnight (never squeeze the bag otherwise you will cloud the jelly) and then for every pint of liquid (568 mls), use 1 lb (454 g) of sugar. Boil as for jam, reach setting point and pot in usual way. The yield is pitifully low but you will have an elegant preserve. If it is crystal clear, you will also impress your friends!
But back to the Damson Jam:
3 Kg Damsons
1.5 litres water
2.4 Kg sugar
Thaw the damsons overnight and remove the stones. If they won’t budge, stew the fruit in a large jam pan with the water for 15 minutes, mashing it with a potato masher to create a pulp. Stir regularly so that the fruit does not burn on the base of the pan. When cooked, cool slightly and remove the stones. Add the sugar, stir over a moderate heat until the sugar is dissolved and then boil rapidly to reach setting point – this can take 15 minutes or it could take 25 minutes depending on the ripeness of the fruit. If a scum forms on top of the jam, spoon it off. Underneath the jam will become dark and bright.
To test for setting point, spoon some jam onto a chilled plate and leave for 5 minutes in the fridge or freezer. Push the jam with your finger and the it should wrinkle. If it is too runny, carry on boiling! Usually you can see a gel forming around the jam pan and with experience you barely need to do a test - though I always do so that I can lick the plate! At this stage, sometimes I add a decent shot of drambuie liqueur but add this carefully as hot jam and cold liquid can cause spurting.
Using a jug and a funnel, carefully pour the jam into hot, sterilised jars and cover with lids. Remember that jam is hotter than boiling water and splashes hurt. At this stage it is very important to line the jars up on the work surface and admire your work. There is nothing like that smug feeling of having a row of sparkly, jam jars. Savour the prospect of having jam sponge and custard. (Though I quite like damson jam on oatcakes.) Invest in some fancy jam jar lids and labels and you have lovely gifts which people really appreciate.
The damson jam is now in the parnty as is the redcurrant jelly. Next, it is the turn of the raspberry. For me, this is the Queen of jams. Use equal quantities of fruit and sugar and if you use frozen fruit which has thawed, you don't need to simmer the fruit for more than a few minutes. This maintains the fruity flavour and gorgeous colour.
Usually, I finish up with little bags of leftover fruits, including blackcurrants and blackberries, so make them into coulis to have with ice cream or make mousses. However, from time to time I make a batch of what I call 'Mixed Berry Jam'. It is surprisingly good and it is important not to waste any fruit.
Enjoy!
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