Lake Maggiore is big and beautiful. With wonderful weather, picture-book scenery, charming architecture, ferry boats and delcious ice cream, what more is there to ask for? And that's the thing about Italy, you really do get more. Pizza done properly, friendly locals, inspiring gardens, walks and mountain railways. Italy is now one of our favourite destinations.
We stayed at Pallanza, a quiet up-market locality and the Hotel Majestic was magestic. Expensive but worth it. We did not need a car and travelled everywhere by ferry and it was so relaxing just messing about on boats. One day we took a 3 hour cruise up to Locano in Switzerland and lunch took some beating. We were served risotto followed by pasta followed by chicken and potatoes followed by almond cake - all washed down with wine. So much carbohydrate was hard going but a fantastic mountain rail journey back gave us ample opportunity to digest it all.
Lake Maggiore is dotted with islands and Isola Madre is home to a wonderful garden and house. From the gate, the first view was a border of multi-coloured coleus plants. There was every colour imaginable and if you think this plant belongs in the 1970's, think again. It was a coincidence in that I had recently seen some tubs of coleus at Sledmere House, near Driffield. They looked great so I bought a packet of seeds. They may be brash to some but done well, they certainly make a statement and are making a stunning comeback.
Of course, if it is not a husband getting in the way of good photo, it is a pesky peacock. However, even HE cannot steal the show. And to think we wondered if there would still be colour towards the end of September!
So after, a lovely visit to Isola Madre and an expresso coffee to keep us hyper, we headed off to Isola Bella. It is the only garden I have ever visited and thought WOW - but please don't give it to me to take home. If you think coleus is over the top, the garden on Isola Bella's raises the bar. You need expresso just to take this garden in. (Incidentally, I loathe expresso. Give me a skinny latte any day.)
Now that is what I call a fountain - but they only turn it on for VIPs. It is truly a work of art but strutting your stuff and showing how much you could afford to spend, was what it was all about. And if Monty Don thinks its okay (one of his BBC Italian Garden visits), then I am okay with it.
Isola Bella is all about form and plenty of it. However, there were some striking elements which are achievable, though perhaps they need scaling down a wee bit. I loved the simple box ball pots and I should have stood next to them to show just how big they are. If we placed a couple of these outside the front door, I think the postman may complain but big is beautiful at Isola Bella and it works. As for all that trimming, well I suppose you need strong snippers and a team to help you. 
I am not sure this garden was built for us to enjoy the view but when you can take your eyes off the sculptures and stucco work, there is a wonderful sight from the highest point of the garden. You can see for miles and the lake is a paradise. Anyway, two gardens in one day was enough and anyway we had to go for another fix of our Amaretti ice cream sundae.
Ah, Lake Maggiore. Do go. You will love it.
